Thursday 15 March 2012

The Sri Lankan classification of staring

"Foreigners were stared at in India. Somewhere in the five or more millennia of its history, the [Indian] culture had decide to dispense with the casual, nonchalant glance. By the time I came to Bombay, the eye contact ranged from an ogling gaze to a gawping, goggle-eyed glare. There was nothing malicious in it. The staring eyes that found and followed me everywhere I went were innocent, curious, and almost always friendly.  And that intense scrutiny had its benefits : for the most part, people stared at what I was, not what I did. Foreigners were stared into invisibility.” 

(an extract from Shantaram, an incredible book and unbelievable story written by and based on the life of Gregory David Roberts). If you haven't yet read it, I can thoroughly recommend it.

Although referring to India, this passage could just a well be written of Sri Lankan and has certainly been my experience so far as a foreigner here. Having said that, I have felt anything but invisible. I'm fairly confident that there have been more than a few occasions when people have absolutely been staring at “what I did” not just “what I am” (the unfortunate flip flop incident and the bus rage fuelled moment of slightly loud swearing being just two examples). Between “the ogling gaze” and the “gawping, goggle eyed glare” there are a whole host of different varieties of staring to be enjoyed here.

There is the open mouthed stare and the classic double-take, the grinning stare, the confused, amused and bemused stares and the unnervingly sullen stare. There is the twist and stare, the most basic of which involves a simple turn of the neck, as well as the spin and stare; I've seen both 180 degree spins as well as the odd Jackson-esque 360. There is the silent stare, the beep and stare, the hazardous steer and stare, and the very common shout and stare; the latter most often consisting of enquiries about which country I am from and where I am going.

A particularly entertaining one is the multi-stare (when several passengers on a passing bus all look out of the window at you simultaneously, heads turning in sync as it moves on). The most disconcerting, however, are the stares at the pool. The be-goggled stares are not so bad. It's the poolside stares which are most off-putting. I have been reminded of those awkward teenage years when braving the public swimming pool was always accompanied with that horrible feeling that everyone was staring at you. Only, this time they really are!

However, if I had to give a prize to the stare most effective in rendering this foreigner horribly uncomfortable, it would go to the stand far too close, follow and stare, a special kind of staring practised by the ridiculously attentive shop assistants from a distance of approximately 2 nose lengths. As someone who does not enjoy shopping at the best of times, you can imagine how much I love this one!

Although it's taking some time to get used to, I am mostly finding it more amusing than irritating. I am getting better at ignoring the looks when it suits me, or fleeing from the shop when necessary, but more often enjoy sharing a smile with the starer. Whether this continues to be the case remains to be seen.

Wednesday 7 March 2012

I am working


7 weeks in and I think it's time to talk about work; mainly because I need to answer the increasing number of accusations from those who doubt that I am doing anything at all besides enjoy one long holiday. So, here goes...

My time is divided between the University at Ragama and the Hospital (National Institute of Mental Health) at Angoda. At the University I'm supporting the the first batch of Sri Lankan Occupational Therapist's who are undertaking a degree top-up to their original diploma qualification. I've been spending a couple of days a week attending lectures, getting to know the students and learning the many unfamiliar Sri Lankan names. I've also been planning some teaching sessions which I'll be delivering throughout March as part of the mental health module. It's been good to have something concrete to focus on during the first few weeks of my time here. Many volunteers will testify that this is often the most challenging stage of a placement as you try to figure out what your role is, where you fit in and perhaps question what on earth you are doing here. I'm sure this will come, but so far I'm feeling fairly positive. I'm also looking forward to supporting the students as they undertake more community based work (a very new concept in Sri Lanka). They will do this both within their current roles, and as part of a 1 month community placement somewhere new. This could be anywhere is the country and so is likely to involve some travelling for me.

When I'm not at the university, or planning teaching sessions, I have been hopping on the no. 150 bus to the hospital (On reflection, the use of the term “hopping” is a little misleading as it suggests that the task of getting onto a bus is fairly straightforward. Buses rarely come to a complete stop for more than a second or two in Colombo and therefore embarking often involves more of a flying leap....anyway...I digress). As one of the only bus routes that goes via the mental hospital, the 150 appears to be synonymous with “madness” for locals and as such provides the punchline for many jokes. This is reflective of the huge stigma surrounding mental illness in Sri Lanka; although, I suppose, not that dissimilar to comments in the UK about being carted off to the “loony bin” and men in white coats left over from the days of the asylums. It's very difficult to know where to begin when describing the place. I'm still very much taking it all in. And so, I will not even attempt to. Instead, I'll let you follow the link to a page on the hospital website which I've realised also provides written evidence of my presence here (just in case you are still doubting me). It's fair to say that there is much progress to be made at the hospital, with scarce resources and individualised, client-centred care being a new and unfamiliar concept to many of the staff. However, there is also a great deal of good work already happening, particularly in the OT department where I will be based.


And so I'll leave you with some of the highlights of my time at Angoda so far as I focus on getting to know the staff and patients and build up relationships which I hope will enable me to make some small sustainable difference during my time here.

  • Playing carrom with the patients (an addictive Sri Lankan tabletop game)
  • Being force-fed home made rice and curry by the friendly and extremely insistent supportive staff
  • Sweating even more than usual, but not minding, whilst joining the patients for their morning exercise routine...all to the tune of the Vengaboys Shala lalala!
  • Being invited to join the staff on a team away day at the beach (see photos)
  • Doing a spot of sewing, like a proper OT
  • Entertaining the supportive staff with my ongoing efforts to learn Sinhala
  • Perfecting a well-timed and shared head waggle

OT department day out at the beach

BusClimbing manAction shotSri lankan women fully clothed in the seaMan with monkey & snakeA stroll back to the bus